Tales from a Broad ... and a Gent

İstanbul is not Constantinople.

Friday, October 20, 2006

Seker Bayram

We've heard that this weekend - Seker Bayram, or the Sugar Holiday, at the end of Ramazan, is a thing to behold here. But perhaps that we don't want to behold. It's a little like Mardis Gras, from what I can gather, except that all the abstaining has happened before, and therefore everything's all pent up. Our Turkish roommate, Ayca, claims that Istiklal (the main drag in the Taksim area) is chuck full of men hastling every woman that walks by, and that she will be spending the four days hiding in her room because she hates it. Sasha says that last year, when they were living across the street from a transvestite brothel, there was a stampede of men running towards their area as soon as the call to prayer went out that night.

Mark and I were going to go away to a beach area with some nice hiking trails for the weekend, but since we have to leave the country next week to get our visas renewed, we can't really afford it. So, we will probably sit at home, and maybe venture out merely to witness (or not?) the craziness. Who knows, maybe nothing exciting at all will happen. I know that I am just glad to have the five days off, especially since I am recovering/in the midst of a wonderful cold. And perhaps there will be more exciting news next week. Part of the purpose of this post is just to let everyone know we're still alive. So, there you have it.

Friday, October 06, 2006

The war we never anticipated and may never win

Mark and I didn't come here looking for a fight. We're peaceful people. We don't even fight with each other. But this week, our rage has been so provoked that every morning we wake before the sunrise and hunt our enemy until we see blood splattered all over the walls and we feel we can rest. Who is this nemesis that has earned such wrath from us? It is the never ending stream of blood-thirsty bastards that are driven by something even more powerful than politics. You kill one of them and two more takes its place. How they infiltrate we aren't sure - perhaps security checks aren't tough enough at the open window upstairs.

What I do know is that Mark and I have killed probably 25 mosquitoes in the early morning hours of the past week. They buzz infuriatingly about our heads around 4:30/5 every morning, and so we have to wake up, turn on the light, and hunt them down with magazines. There are now myriad blood spots on our white walls from their little exploding thoraxes. We have one of those things you plug in that are supposed to kill them, but nothing wards them off. Maybe they realized that the drums weren't waking us up anymore, and so something had to keep us from a sound night's rest.

I have always hated mosquitoes - my single greatest moment of fear was being lost in a swamp and being terrified that any article of clothing might rip and I would expose an inch of flesh and be devoured alive by the satanic hoard that was so dense it was only barely transluscent. But I got over that - they were just doing their thing, and I was in their swamp, so why wouldn't they want to eat me? But now, it's personal. They're coming after us at home, and that ain't right.

We're considering invading the parks and such that support the growth of mosquitoes in puddles, but are reluctant due to the prospect of having to set up an interim hive and control all the various hostile puddle factions.


- I apologize to anyone offended by the jest of this metaphor, but I couldn't resist.

Tuesday, October 03, 2006

Our humble home - a virtual tour.

Allow me, finally, to show you where we really live every day. You see, I've just gotten off the ferry, where I've been forced to look at things like the Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque all the way across the Bosphorus. Then I walk up a big hill, and, to top it all off, I have to walk around this big annoying ugly thing on my way home. It's called Galata Tower. At night, this archaic piece of "history" or something finally serves a purpose. It's lit all pretty and serves as a beacon for me to watch as it gets closer across the water as I come home from a long day of work. It's alright, I guess...

Next, lets walk down our street, away from the tower.

And here's a pretty building on our street - it's cool and old and very run-down. I don't think anybody lives in it...I hope not, anyway.

And here is our block. I realize I didn't get a picture of our building from the front, but I would've felt a little awkward if the guy who works in the shop on the first floor of our building saw me snapping photos like the tourist that I keep trying not to be. That pile of stuff on the right is the front of the store, where we buy our daily bread, milk, eggs, some veggies, and lots of Coke and chocolate.

These are the stairs of death that lead up to our 5th-floor apartment. For about a week the light at the top was out, and so the last two flights of stairs we had to walk in pitch darkness. That was, well, life-threatening. The very top of the railing is broken off, and so slipping at the top would mean a nice iron skewer through your chest...but these are just the dangers you face in a big city, or something.

And here's our actually comfortingly solid door with double locks and lazer-cut keys. Pretty damn secure, really. I think that's probably good. There's about 16 Sri Lankens living in the apartment on the 3rd floor, and though I think they're all benevolent, having that many people coming in and out of the building and leaving the front door open generally makes me a touch nervous. We're really very safe, though.

And this is our kitchen. It is very small, but totally sufficient (it's like Jason and Judy's old kitchen, but with less light). It is very dark right now, too, because the light broke with an alarming mid-night shatter a couple of weeks ago, and we're not sure what to do about it. But, it's alright - our window keeps it pretty bright, and there's a lamp we can move to light it better, as well.

More kitchen. Behind that door is our washing machine for clothes that works with only minimal coaxing and hasn't ruined anything yet, so thank goodness for that. Do notice the distinct lack of oven in this kitchen, though...with Thanksgiving looming, we may be investing in a small portable electric cook oven, because pumpkin pie just ain't gonna work.

This is the office that Sasha set up in half of her bedroom so we would have somewhere to work and lesson plan and grade papers and such. However, this room has been recently occupied by one of Ayca's friends, so I've taken to doing all of my work in my room or at school. It's okay - it's a nice space, but I, unfortunately, can't really work unless the space is mine, you know? It's a great place to keep all the books and stuff, though.

This is our bedroom. We also have a nice bean-bag chair, now - they have bean-bags with backs here. They kinda look like pairs. But that's our lovely IKEA bed and bedside table Mark and I assembled ourselves. This space is actually right next to the kitchen, and blocked off visually by some curtains we struggled to hang from the ceiling. It's nice and private, and we get to keep all the window light. However, this barrier does not prevent unwanted kitten invasions, which can sometimes be annoying, but oh well.

Speaking of window, this is the view of the Bosphorus from our bedroom. Pretty crappy, huh? This is the dreaded portal of the 5am mosquito that wakes Mark and/or me EVERY morning, however, and I'm sure will be nice and drafty in the winter since it's a wooden and loose-ish window frame. We'll be using some of the heat-trapping tactics learned at the Jefferson house on this one, I think.

And the stairs that are very bizarrely inserted into the house that go up to our second floor.

Here's our living room/TV room, where Mark and I have been watching a lot of Sex and the City lately. That door is also the prime entrance for the nice giant cat who comes in and says hello sometimes and pees on things and fights with our cats. Great. I miss is window screens.

For the mothers and the motherly types who need to know that we are using a sufficiently clean and functional bathroom, here you go. The shower is pretty excellent - hot water and good pressure and all, as long as nobody else in the building turns the water on. It's great in the late morning, though, because the sun comes in that little window.

This is our sitting/eating/coffee/smoking room, or the cats' bedroom. Those green chairs are their territory much of the day. I stupidly didn't take a picture of the view out that window on the left, but rest assured it's a bit better than from our bedroom. Every few days I get to marvel at the GIANT cruise ships that come into port at Karakoy, and you can see all the way to the "other bridge", the northerly bridge, from this window. Pretty sweet. Oh, and the stairs go up to the terrace, with it's also-crappy view.

I still don't have any pictures from the daytime, but here are some night views from our roof that we pretend was intended as a sitting area, despite the fact that the tar from the roof sticks to the legs of the plastic chairs all the time, and leaks in those places I think. Oh well, they're redoing the whole roof, anyway, and what's a roof for if not to stand on, anyway?


So that's our apartment. Our home, for now. Photos of the roomies and the cats to follow someday, I promise. We do interact with other people sometimes, I promise - we just don't have any photographic proof yet. T.T.F.N.

Sunday, October 01, 2006

A post about nothing!

Ok, so its not about absolutely nothing.

I think things here are settling into a kind of routine. Kate and I both are working our schedules that we'll have for a long time. We finally got our apartment set up in a way that is livable and we could even show company. We feel comfortable in the city and interacting in a language we only know a bare minimum of. The only thing missing from the equation are friends. Its really too bad, because the two kinda close friends we've made are gone. Sasha had to go back to Australia to get papers for her work visa, she'll be gone an undetermined amount of time. Ilker, an Australian/Turk has to do his military service because he wants to keep his Turkish citizenship. So our two contacts who know their way around the city are both gone, but should be home soon. I'm hoping our social lives will pick up a bit when they return.

Speaking of military service, one difference I've noticed about Turkey is how often and easily they will deploy force around Istanbul. You almost always see police officers wandering around Istiklal street (the huge pedestrian shopping main road), usually armed with automatic weapons. Probably about every week I see a force of police equipped in riot gear marching around in formation. When we were in the CTEFL course, there was a large Anti-Israel protest that Kate walked by, and she said they had a large force of riot police there as well as a tank. What she said was interesting was that they pretty much looking like a lot of dudes in really official gear just hanging out. A fair few were talking on their cell-phones and the rest were relaxing and chatting. This has been true of all the times I've seen police in riot gear. They march in step and have all the gear, but when they stop they all chat and take out their cell-phones. As for the officers in uniform on Istiklal, I occasionally see them chatting. I once saw a little kid, probably around 4 or 5, make his hand a gun and made gun noises at the police officer. He grinned, took his hand, and made the same noise back. Its like the Turkish government really wants to convince everyone that their police force is everywhere and totally in control, but they can't hide the fact that they are just normal dudes. It refreshingly opposite to the states, where the police take their role as a disciplinarian far to seriously.

Anyway, I think thats it for now. Not much to say. Kate and I may head out to the center of town for iftar (sundown, its Ramadan here, so there is a large meal at sundown because people can eat after fasting all day). Until next time.